SEACF LEVEL 3

Climbing class

DAY 1
1.Difference between single pitch harness and multi pitch harness
2.Always hang PAS at right hand side 2nd loop for right handed person.
3.Back belay loop on the left side is for putting everything else.
4.Hang your Quickdraw from in to out. Makes it so much easier to take it off later.
5.Always open gate using side. And with thumb. Wider.
6.Must always have a million ready when climbing.
7.Anchor in Krabi is different from everywhere else in the sense that the anchor here are ok to rope for repelling.
8.Harness belt must sit on top of your pelvic bone.
9.Two ways to clip efficiently.
1.Middle finger to stabilize the crab, push the rope in using thumb.
2.Hold the rope with two fingers, while your thumb and two more fingers gripping the carabiner body. Push the rope in and pull your finger down. If your finger get stuck while clipping, pull downward quickly. Not upward.
10.Two ways to save a rope if you can’t finish a climb, million or rappel.
11.If you need to pull the rope with your mouth, do it quickly and dont bite it for long. U might lose your tooth. Better to use your chin to hold the rope.
12.When you want to fall on lead, jump to the side where the last protection is so you don’t swing and smash into the rock.
13.When belaying, make it a habit to have your non dominant thumb on the gear loop and your right hand beneath your left hand. So it prevents yg hand from getting sucked into the atc.
14.Prusik autoblock measurement.
●Fold the Prusik to 2. Wrap around your rope 4 times. Leave some space for the size of a fist on the top. Leave some space to tie the Prusik at the end with an overhand knot.
15.Clean anchor steps
●Clip in Quickdraw. Ask for tension.
●Clip in PAS. Ask for slack. Take the loose end of the rope and feed a bite into the anchor ring.
●Make figure 8 on a bite on the rope and clip in using your locking carabiner to your harness loop.
●Untie your figure 8 knot on your harness.
●Request for tension. Wait for belayer to respond tension on.
●Sit in your harness. Remove PAS.
●Ask to be lowered.
16.Rappel steps
●Clip in Quickdraw. Ask for tension.
●Clip in PAS under the Quickdraw.
●Ask to be off belay.
●Remove the Quickdraw.
●Pull the rope from below. Measure from anchor to your waist and extra 6 inches or so. Tie a figure 8 on bite. Clip in to Quickdraw on your side.
●Untie your harness knot. Feed the single rope thru the anchor ring . Pull all the way to your right side. Tie an overhand knot on the end of the rope and clip to your right side.
●Untie the knot on your left side.
●Pull the rope thru the anchor ring until the end is halfway to the ground.  Unclip the right side knot and throw it to the ground while yelling rope.
●Set up your Prusik for rapelling
17.Setting up Prusik 1
●Wrap the prusik around the rope 4 times. Use carabiner to clip them together. Now I have an autolock prusik. Clip the carabiner to my right leg loop.
●Take out my belay device. Clip to my belay loop straightaway.
●Feed both ropes into my atc in the same time. Clip in my locking carabiner to my belay loop.
18.Setting up Prusik 2
●Using the daisy chain or PAS. You can clip your belay device to the loop nearest to your body.
●Prusik is clip to your belay loop.

DAY 21.For single pitch climb, always bring at least 3 locking carabiner. For multipitch climb, at least 10. 2.I need to have at least 1 webbing with me at all times. 3.How to set anchor using a webbing and 2 locking crabs. This way is safer than using the normal Quickdraw because these at least are locking crabs. The locking carabiner must be upside down. 4.Wheb clipping on lead, if you are going to the right top, it's better to have the gate mouth facing right. And vice versa for left side to prevent the gate from accidentally opening. 5.Add 2 non locking carabiner vertically on the knot before climber climbs to prevent the webbing from getting stuck and cannot open. 6.Prusik 1.Classic prussik ( can use for Goin gup and going down) 2.Climbing high prusik(, can replace jumma) 7.Learn how to make a climbing harness using the end of a rope. Figure 8 on bite but partially. 8.Learned how to come down from a single rope rappel. Need to use clove hitch and a carabiner. 9.Learned how to assist friend when rappelling down but stuck using 2 locking carabiner. Only works if the the rope is tight. 10.Use bunny knot to set anchor with two locking carabiner for cases when you want to build anchor to rappel down when you are drilling for routes. 11.Multipitch belay a.QUICKDRAW CLIP b.PAS PUT ON c.SECOND QUICKDRAW ON ANCHOR. MAKE CLOVEHITCH ON QUICKDRAW. SAME LENTGH AS PAS. d.MAKE THE PLACE TO PUT THE ROPE. USE CLOVE HITCH. e.QUICKDRAW ON ANOTHER ANCHOR TO BELAY CLIMBER ON. f.BELAY ON. CLIMBING. CLIMB ON 12.